During the many explorations by land, sea and air that we carried out in the wild Baja California territory, we said that we had to ascend to the highest peaks of the peninsula.
Thus, the first peaks we conquered were the peaks of the Sierra de la Laguna, in the Los Cabos region, and our next objective was the majestic Tres Vírgenes volcano, in the north of Baja California Sur. In La Paz we made all the preparations for the expedition, and following highway number 1 that runs parallel to the Gulf of California we arrived at the old and picturesque mining town of Santa Rosalía, located on the shores of the Gulf and at the base of the huge volcano of 1,900. msnm, your eternal guardian.
During the many explorations by land, sea and air that we carried out in the wild Baja California territory, we said that we had to ascend to the highest peaks of the peninsula. Thus, the first peaks we conquered were the peaks of the Sierra de la Laguna, in the Los Cabos region, and our next objective was the majestic Tres Vírgenes volcano, in the north of Baja California Sur. In La Paz we made all the preparations for the expedition, and following highway number 1 that runs parallel to the Gulf of California we arrived at the old and picturesque mining town of Santa Rosalía, located on the shores of the Gulf and at the base of the huge volcano of 1,900. msnm, your eternal guardian.
Santa Rosalía, also known among locals as “Cahanilla”, is an old French-style mining town. Years ago, this town was the most prosperous on the peninsula, given the rich copper deposits found in the surrounding mountains, where the mineral was at the surface of the ground in large balls known as "boleos". The exploitation was carried out by the French company El Boleo Mining Company, associated with the Rothschild house.
The French built their picturesque wooden houses, their shops and a bakery (which is still working today), and they also brought a church, that of Santa Barbara, which was designed by the author Eiffel. The splendor and wealth of this town ended in 1953, when the deposits were exhausted, but Santa Rosalía is still there, on the shores of the Bermejo Sea, as a large open-air museum that preserves its flavor and the French-style air of its streets and buildings. .
THE VOLCANIC ZONE OF THE THREE VIRGINS
The volcanic complex is made up of the Tres Vírgenes volcano, the Azufre volcano and the Viejo volcano, all of which are part of the El Vizcaíno Desert Biosphere Reserve (261,757.6 hectares). This region is of great ecological and geological importance, since it constitutes the habitat of threatened species, unique in the world, such as the cirio, the datilillo and the bighorn sheep, and because it is an important source of geothermal energy that is generated in the entrails from the earth, thousands of meters deep. Currently, the Federal Electricity Commission is developing a very interesting project to use geothermal energy in the Tres Vírgenes volcano.
THE CIMARRÓN BORREGO
Another equally interesting project of great ecological importance is the protection and conservation of the bighorn sheep, which is carried out by monitoring the populations, observing their reproductive cycles and conducting censuses from the air; But most important of all this is vigilance against poachers.
The current population of bighorn sheep in the area is estimated to be around 100 individuals.
During our expedition to the volcanoes we had the opportunity to see a herd of bighorn sheep on the steep slopes of the Azufre volcano. Currently its distribution area corresponds to 30% of that historically known because of two of its worst enemies: poachers and the alteration of its habitat.
TOWARDS THE VOLCANO
Continuing with our preparations, we went to the reserve's biological station in order to request authorization to ascend the volcano, and then, with all the equipment in tow, we began to walk through the desert under the relentless sun. To protect ourselves from it, we wrap our turbans around our heads, the Arabian style. Turbans are the best protection against the sun, since they become damp with sweat, and they cool and protect the head, thus avoiding dehydration.
The Three Virgins volcano is rarely visited, it only attracts those who are lovers of adventure and exploration, such as scientists, hunters and hikers. The view of the Three Virgins from its base is spectacular, like from another planet; its fiery slopes, made up of blackish volcanic rocks, made us think about how difficult the ascent would be and about the kind of life that could inhabit such arid and rugged terrain.
There is no exact record of who was the first to ascend the volcano. In 1870, during the time of the mining explorations carried out by the French company, a German named Heldt reached the top, and subsequently several people have ascended for the sole purpose of hiking, such as the parish priests of the temple of Santa Bárbara, in Santa Rosalía, who placed the crosses on the top.
The name of the Three Virgins is due to the fact that its three peaks have formed an inhospitable region, little explored, remote and practically virgin, where the millenary rhythm of nature continues its course, which began some 250 thousand years ago.
The last strong eruption, in which it threw lava and rocks, was reported by Fathers Consag and Rodríguez in May-June 1746; in 1857 the volcano released large amounts of steam.
In the first stage of our excursion, we pass through thick thickets of white branch, torotes, mesquite trees, chollas, cardones and impressive elephant trees whose twisted roots adhere to the immense volcanic rocks. The vegetation is very closed there, there are no paths or marked paths, and you must advance in a zig-zag between the chollas, which at the slightest touch hung from our clothes, and their hard and sharp thorns like harpoons were embedded in our arms and legs; some thorns managed to penetrate the boots and became a real nuisance.
The most accessible route is located between the Three Virgins volcano and the Azufre volcano. As we move forward, we enter the fantastic world of "trees of irregular nature", as described by the Jesuit priest Miguel del Barco (author of the book Natural History and Chronicle of Antigua California), who was surprised by the capricious forms of the flora of the desert, composed of biznagas, giant cacti, elephant trees, yuccas, candles, and so on.
The most beautiful and interesting thing about this region lies in its rugged topography, where the altitude varies radically, starting from sea level to almost 2,000 m at the summit of the Three Virgins; This variable altitudinal range allowed us to observe the different types of vegetation that inhabit the volcano. After crossing the scrub area we discover a fascinating and exotic forest of candles.
THE CANDLES
The candle is one of the rarest and strangest plants in the world. It is a perfect example of adaptation and survival to the environment; It grows in the most hostile regions of the desert, where the temperature varies from 0ºC to 40ºC, with very little or no rainfall.
Her growing is very slowly; under optimal conditions they grow 3.7 cm per year, taking them 27 years to reach one meter in height. In less favorable conditions they need 40 years to grow one meter, 2.6 cm per year. The tallest and oldest candles that have been found reach 18 m in height and an estimated age of 360 years.
TO THE CONQUEST OF THE LANDSCAPE
The rugged and rugged volcanic topography never ceased to amaze us. After crossing the ghostly forest of candles, we ascended to a hill, between the Three Virgins and the Sulfur, where the terrain became an immense and dark scree, inhabited by some cacti, magueys and yuccas that cling to the way in a way Awesome. Our ascent was slowed by the instability of the terrain.
After a couple of hours of jumping from rock to rock, we ascended to the end of the rocky area, where we faced another equally difficult obstacle: a thick forest of short oaks and huge sotol palms (Nolina beldingii). In this part the vegetation was less thorny, but as closed as the lowland scrub. In some sections we walked on the short oaks and in others they covered us completely, disoriented us and made us spin in the last meters of the ascent (and we thought that there were only rocks up here). Finally, after a hard twelve-hour hike we reached the summit marked by a brilliant engraved cross that lies under a large sotol palm.
We close the end of our day by contemplating one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world, from 1 951 m from one of the roofs of the Baja California peninsula. It was as if the volcano ignited again, the landscape was painted in warm yellow, orange and fiery red tones. In the distance, the last rays of the sun illuminated the great Reserve of El Vizcaíno; on the horizon you could see the San Ignacio and Ojo de Liebre lagoons in Guerrero Negro, ancient sanctuaries of the gray whale in the Mexican Pacific. In peninsular lands the vast and infinite plains extended, home of the pronghorn, whose monotony was broken by the impressive peaks of Santa Clara. Closer to the volcano were the deep canyons and plateaus of the Sierra de San Francisco and Santa Martha, both mountains enclose in their ravines one of the great enigmas of the world: the mysterious cave paintings.
The sunrise was just as spectacular. Without a doubt, from this point you can contemplate one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world; The first rays of the sun illuminated the coast of Sonora, the majestic Gulf of California and the Viejo and del Azufre volcanoes, faithful witnesses to the origin of their homeland, the Baja California peninsula.
IF YOU GO TO THE VOLCANO OF THE THREE VIRGINS
Take highway no. 1, which crosses the Baja California peninsula, to reach Santa Rosalía. There you will find gas station services, modest hotels and restaurants.
From Santa Rosalía you have to continue along the same road and take the deviation that takes you to the Tres Vírgenes ranchería.
In the Bonfil ejido you can get guides to ascend the volcano (ask for Mr. Ramón Arce), but information and authorization must be requested from the Biological Station of the El Vizcaíno Reserve in Guerrero Negro or visit the small biological station of Borrego Cimarrón, near the ranchería de las Tres Vírgenes.
Source: Unknown Mexico No. 265 / March 1999
Photographer specialized in adventure sports. He has worked for MD for over 10 years!
