Atlatlauhcan is a town of pre-Hispanic origin whose name means "between two ravines of reddish water", in which, among the relevant festivals, the one of September 21 stands out, dedicated to San Mateo, its patron saint, whose image is carried in procession to bless the homes and the cornfields.
The festival of La Cuevita is also important, which is celebrated between May and June. In this, the men dress as Moors and cowboys, while the women as shepherds, and go to a small cave at the exit of the town to venerate the Child Jesus.
The carnival takes place shortly after Ash Wednesday and during it the men dress up as women and the children as old men. Everyone creates a bustle to the sound of trumpets and drums, while a wooden doll known as "Chepe" is made to dance. Worth mentioning are the festivities dedicated to San Isidro Labrador, on May 15 and December 15, when the image travels throughout the town accompanied by tractors and horses, and, like Saint Matthew, blesses homes and crops.
THE FORMER MONASTERY OF SAN MATEO
Without a doubt, this temple is the pole around which all the events of the town revolve. Its construction date dates back to the second half of the 16th century, although the town was catechized since 1533.
There are very curious data in the history of this temple. To realize its monumentality, suffice it to say that in 1965 its main bell was transferred to the Metropolitan Cathedral. Another interesting feature is that the mass is still said in Latin, which to date maintains a division between the congregations, because in the parish headquarters, located a few streets from the old former convent, the mass is said in Spanish.
The former monasteries of northern Morelos retain many common features, among them the battlements that top the walls, as we can see in Tlayacapan, Yecapixtla and Atlatlauhcan, among others. These finials suggest a defensive function, but what in principle could have been this way, over time became an architectural style.
Special mention deserves, both in Atlatlauhcan and in other temples in the region, its mural painting. Here, the decoration resembles that of Santo Domingo de Oaxtepec and Yecapixtla. There are many little angels that seem to have been shaped with the same molds. The hexagons of the cloister are very similar between Atlatlauhcan and Oaxtepec, but those of the former have the image of the Sacred Heart in the center and their color is between red and sepia, while those of Oaxtepec predominate blue.
The former convent of San Juan Bautista, in Yecapixtla, and that of San Mateo Atlatlauhcan could be considered as the closest, not only in terms of proximity, but also in styles. Its architectural plan is almost identical, with the façade facing west and the cloister on its southern side. Both have a large atrium with chapels. The naves are very similar, of great height and depth, although the one in Yecapixtla has a greater interior luminosity due to the light that filters through its north side door and through the rose window through which the sun's rays penetrate towards the altar at dusk.
The facade of Atlatlauhcan, although not spectacular, presents interesting features. Renaissance sobriety is combined with a neoclassical clock on the upper part - donated by Porfirio Díaz - and that since 1903 works perfectly. There are
a pair of turrets at the ends, just below the belfry, that refer our imagination to a medieval castle. The main tower is located behind the façade and can only be seen either from the north side or above the vault.
To the left of the façade, we can see, like a small temple, the chapel of the Indians, also topped with battlements. To the right of the façade is the entrance to the cloister, preceded by the old gate that connects the former convent and the Capilla del Perdón. Both the gatehouse and the chapel have excellent decoration on their walls, an iconography that has been partially restored and that shows images of Saint Augustine.
The door that connects the old portería with the Capilla del Perdón is a beautiful example of the Mudejar style. All the doors of the cloister have the same design in their arches, but they lack the carved quarry that it looks like.
From the ground floor of the cloister you can go down to the second floor, but before going up it is advisable to visit the nave of the temple, which is accessed through a side door. The interior is poorly lit and it is in the afternoon when, through the main entrance, the light penetrates towards the altar, where a 19th century neoclassical cypress stands out.
One of the best details of the interior are the stained glass windows on the door: in one you can see Saint Matthew with an archangel, and in the other, Jesus Christ. The latter is excellent and shows on his chest an image of the Sacred Heart. The apse allows us to admire the original decoration, although on the other walls of the nave there is a blue paint that must hide a similar decoration.
Next to the altar, on the right side, is the entrance to the sacristy, where the Virgin of Guadalupe is venerated. The thickness of the walls is striking, which gives an idea of the enormous weight of the structure they support.
From the top, above the vaults, it is not only possible to contemplate an extraordinary landscape, it is also possible to admire the enormous volumes that give it its appearance of a temple-fortress.
Behind the belfry, which is accessed through a passage where hardly a person can fit, you reach
the bells to read some of their legends. A few meters away there is a little bridge that connects to the tower where the largest bell is located, which is inscribed, among other mottos: "To the Patron Saint Matthew". At dusk, this voluminous structure takes on interesting shades of light and shadow and the silhouettes of the volcanoes are cleared of their mist and give a picture of extraordinary transparency.
IF YOU GO TO ATLATLAUHCAN
It can be reached by the México-Cuautla highway or by the Chalco-Amecameca route. For the first one, you have to reach the north bypass of Cuautla and head towards Yecapixtla. The second one goes more directly after a kilometer and a half between the federal highway and the town, whose temple can be seen from before reaching the cruise.
The place is very quiet and has no hotels or restaurants, although the latter abound along the way.
Source: Unknown Mexico No. 319 / September 2003
