One of our collaborators went to this town where, according to tradition, the remains of the last Mexican tlatoani, Cuauhtémoc, were found to document their traditional festivities.
It was the early morning of February 23, in the city of Ixcateopan, in the state of Guerrero, when amid gloom, ritual smells and unknown languages to the beat of a drum, the name of Cuauhtémoc sounded echoes until dawn.
As soon as I entered the village, I ran into him. The "descending eagle" was seen high up, there on a small pyramid made by who, in a few minutes, my guide became the sculptor. Francisco del Toro He stopped the car and told me about the difficulty it took to build it, because it was important to have the permission and financial support of the government, as well as the validation of the groups that year after year presented themselves to his celebration and would approve the design after several attempts.
From the four directions
I met this place a few weeks before, with its cobblestone streets made of marble, and the tranquility of a town that repeats itself every day; However, this time it was totally different, the place evaporated as I got closer to the agglomeration of cars and buses, which before were not compared to mules, horses and the occasional car that was visible. The long line of tents, along with handicraft stalls from various parts of the country, regional food, and people, who offer their work of cleansing and holistic massages, were incorporated in a square eager to start the celebration.
If you decide to come, it will be better to take into account that there is only a small hotel, but that you can camp on land prepared for such use. Some even prepare the temacal bath for the attendees who want it. So once after pitching my tent, I decided I was ready to become a part of the celebration. The noises of the drums soon made me react.
The remains of Cuauhtémoc
Without an exact date, it is calculated that Cuauhtémoc He was born at the end of the 15th century (the locals affirm that it was in this place, although the chronicles reveal it from Tlatelolca). The remains on display inside the temple are said to belong to him (there is controversy over their veracity). What matters is that for people, whether or not their original remains lie here, it is a good reason to celebrate their Mexicanness.
The ceremony takes place inside and outside the church of Saint Mary of the Assumption, precisely where the remains of the emperor are supposed to be. As I passed, I kept running into symbols and figures, which although it is true that they refer me to my origins, I did not understand. It was clear that they are part of a complex and distant code for me.
Fusion of times and races
As midnight approached, all the attendees, from different ethnic groups, were merging while waiting for their turn to enter "the door that unifies times." At my entrance, a light curtain of copal welcomed me. As I entered the church, I went through the motley universe that was presented. The view was clouded with the smoky gloom of the copal, from which emerged countless snails and plumes. When I finally managed to settle into a corner, I was able to enjoy everything I saw and I felt like a lucky spectator. The energy exploded in an environment that for a few moments took me to a remote time.
The last great dance
In the morning, outside the church, the group organized by representatives of each of the different ethnic groups, from the country and abroad, gathered in circles. It is there where the last and great dance took place, to later enter the church, and thus conclude the ceremony, which in the words of one of the “warriors”, acquires a sense of permanence: “Ours is a cultural root that must be preserved ”.
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