Secrets of mountaineering in Mexico

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In Mexico, mountaineering was practiced since pre-Hispanic times, in the Original Relations of Chalco-Amecameca there is the testimony of an ascent to Popocatepetl in the year 3-reed (1289).

Mountaineering or mountaineering began in 1492, when Antoine De Ville made the first ascent of Mont Aiguille. However, the date considered as the starting point of high mountain sports is August 8, 1786, when Jacques Balmat, reached the summit of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe, together with Dr. Paccard. During the 20th century, in the late 1920s and early 1930s, mountaineers in the European Alps set out to conquer the great cold walls. However, the 1960s were the golden age of great wall climbing, and California's Yosemite Valley became a mecca for the sport. The limits were extended and the new anchoring systems and tools made it possible to go further and further.

The sport of climbing in the high mountains is called mountaineering because it arose in the Alps. The characteristics are basically an altitude above which perennial plant life is not possible and animal life is quite precarious (this factor depends on the latitude where the mountain is located) and a low average temperature, because the mountains are covered of ice or snow. In general, the atmospheric pressure is very low, which causes mountain sickness and other diseases in the unacclimated person. Ultraviolet radiation is high and it is necessary to cover the skin with sunscreen to avoid burns to varying degrees.

Mountaineering in Mexico

In Mexico, mountaineering was practiced since pre-Hispanic times, in the Original Relations of Chalco-Amecameca there is the testimony of an ascent to Popocatepetl in the year 3-reed (1289). Rock climbing began in the 1940s and 1950s. It was started by three groups; one in Mexico City, another in Pachuca and one more in Monterrey. These began to scale empirically. One of the great representatives of this time was Santos Castro, who climbed numerous routes in El Chico National Park, in Las Ventanas, Los Frailes and the Circo del Crestón. In Iztaccíhuatl he opened the Sentinel route, which measures 280 m. In the 70s, the Mexicans Sergio Fish and Germán Wing, introduced the team and the ideology of climbing that takes place in Yosemite.

One of the specialties of this sport is what is known as canyoning, a word derived from English canyoning, which means: follow the entire canyon or canyon. In Popocatepetl it was done since the early days of mountaineering (in the year 3-cane 1289) in the Cañada de Nexpayantla. Now it is practiced almost everywhere, from Baja California to Yucatán. All you need is a wall or cave through which you have to go down that way. Here is an account of some of the destinations to practice mountaineering in Mexico.

Iztaccíhuatl: The Edge of Light

The climb begins in Llano Grande, heading towards the Teyotl valley, heading south, at the base of the wall is the refuge of the same name. This first section is covered by car. Then, on foot, heading east, you must advance through the most prominent rocky channel, which connects with the eastern hair of the Head of Iztaccíhuatl and the base of Teyotl. Once you have reached the hill formed by these three points, you have to head south, walking diagonally through the rocky area of ​​La Cabellera Oriente, that is, on the side of Puebla. Following this path, we advance towards the Neck, diagonally upward through a snow-covered gutter, which leads directly to the hill formed by the Head and the ridge coming from the Chest. Once the Cuello is reached, we continue south along the so-called Arista de la Luz that connects with the summit, which is the Chest of Iztaccíhuatl. This route is shorter and more direct than the normal or La Joya route, but requires greater care and knowledge of climbing techniques.

Iztaccíhuatl Volcano or Sleeping Woman: Climbing Dreams

With its 5,230 m of altitude, it is the third highest mountain in the country and is now the most visited snow-capped volcano in Mexico. Her name means White Woman in Nahuatl. It has many accesses but one of the most common is the route that runs through the entire volcano from Los Pies (Amacuilécatl) to El Pecho.

In the town of Amecameca you can get a transport that takes us to La Joya, at an altitude of 3,940 m, where the ascent begins. Here we must take the route that climbs towards a wall and then deviates. It is important not to lose this path that follows several ridges and hills. After leaving the last trees, we must walk a path with a steep slope, then there is no vegetation. At the end of this, the path takes us towards a rocky slope that ends at the Segundo Portillo (port or pass). From here the route is unmistakable and you just have to go through all the shelters along the way to reach the top.

Shortly after the República de Chile refuge (4,600 m) the sandy areas end. Then we will have to find the Luis Méndez (4,900 m), from this place the ascent is made by a path with a slight slope until reaching the Chest. The most important recommendation for those who do not know the mountain well is to make the ascent in the company of a specialized person or organization. The approximate time from La Joya fluctuates between six to nine hours.

It is the highest mountain in Mexico and also one of the limits between the state of Puebla and Veracruz. It has 5,700 m of altitude, although the INEGI gives it 5,610. The maximum diameter of its crater is 450 m and it has perennial glaciers. Although its original name in Nahuatl is Citlaltépetl (from citlallin, star, and tépetl, hill), it is commonly known as Pico de Orizaba and no one has an idea why this name comes from.

Citlaltépetl or Pico de Orizaba: A perennial star

Perhaps its name is due to its proximity to this Veracruz city. The elegance of this great mountain is distinguished at a considerable distance due to its magnitude and the fact that it has millions of square meters of glacial surface. Almost all of them ascend it from the northern route because of its ease. In the small town of Tlachichuca, in the state of Puebla, we can hire transportation services to the Piedra Grande refuge, a solid construction at an altitude of 4,260 m with capacity for several dozen climbers.

The ascent generally begins in the early morning, starting from the La Lengüeta refuge, which was once the tongue of a glacier, until reaching the upper part of the Espolón, the great rocky mass that lies to the right of the road. There the glacier begins and we must take into account all the safety regulations of mountaineering so that our ascent is easy. There are three cracks in the road, so we must climb strung up and in the company of an experienced guide.

Peña de Bernal: The largest in America

Bernal cannot fail to be admired. Several kilometers before reaching the town, you can see the immense rock that rises above the beautiful landscape. This monolith is considered the third most important in the world, it is located in the state of Querétaro and has a height of 2,430 meters above sea level. It is said that the Basques when they saw this geological formation called it Bernal, which means Peña or Peñasco. These rocky massifs are intrusive volcanic vents whose magma has solidified inside the volcano and its cone has eroded since 180 million years ago.

There are other Bernales in Veracruz, Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí and Tamaulipas. It is impossible to get lost because the immense mass of rock of Peña Bernal rises on the horizon and guides us towards the town. Here we will find a large number of cliffs of various types and sizes, as well as countless routes for beginners and experts alpinists.

This monolith considered the largest in America allows the descent with the rappelling technique, as well as the walk through the town of Peña de Bernal settled on the slopes, since its colonial architecture such as the cathedral is of great interest, a building with the simplicity of the province and the warmth of its inhabitants. It is also characterized by the manufacture of rugs and blankets of pure wool.

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