More than a pretext to try its already famous milk sweets, a walk through this northern city is the opportunity to get a taste of the brilliant past that is savored in every corner.
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After their candy was overwhelmingly won, we flew north. We arrived in the city of Chihuahua and immediately took the bus to Parral, which is almost three hours away. On the way we were thinking about everything that this city has gone through and we were glad that its inhabitants were still so united and so proud of their things ... its gastronomy and its history carved with silver letters.
A good cuber's eye
It didn't take us long to make a good gastronomic route. We found several interesting places to try northern delicacies. In order of appearance on our way, and in our cravings, we plunged into the center, our nose, as a good connoisseur of delicacies, took us to the position of Chilo Méndez, the burrito expert of the entire region, to one side from the Main Square. They are the authentic ones, stuffed with meat and with a delicious sauce. Nothing to do with those who sell our neighbors to the north! Of course, we leave room to continue with the famous kid. We couldn't skip it. They recommended the Los Pinos restaurant, a tradition in the matter. The meat was juicy and the doneness was perfect. All accompanied with tortillas fresh from the comal, the kind that are used throughout the north of the country. Many travelers refuse to leave this land without trying the cuts of meat. Chihuahua shares credit with several states in having the most appetizing. After walking around the city, already hungry, believe it or not, we went straight to La Fogata restaurant. The atmosphere was warm and the service was the best, and of course, the taste and texture of the cuts did not disappoint us, on the contrary. Although it seems crazy, after so much food, in the evening we already wanted to try another specialty. Our hosts from the Parral Tourism Office recommended Tacos Che, next to the Hidalgo Market. We realize that they are very popular, but the attention is good and at one point we were already enjoying the flavor of some steaks with generous amounts of stewed onions and various sauces. Then we went to experience a bit of the nightlife and went to the J. Quissime disco. It has a very special atmosphere, since in addition to dancing and having a drink, it is possible to dine. Astonished we saw that even in the clubs they serve good meat, which confirmed that the parralenses do not beat around the bush when it comes to enjoying the products they have on hand. We saw that there are some large molcajetes well served with filetillo, rajas, asadero cheese and nopales. Although we couldn't eat any more, we confessed that our mouths were watering just to see our table neighbors make their good tacos.
That night we didn't get to dessert anymore, but we wanted to save it for a special moment and it was. The next day we continued our tour of this beautiful city and one of our hosts opened the doors of his home for us to eat. There is nothing better than sharing someone's table when you want to know the regional seasoning. So we were happy for the invitation. Between the aperitifs we helped set the table, while we talked about the history of the city. We did not get tired of the subject. The lady of the house, an excellent hostess, served us northern broth and chili with cheese accompanied by flour tortillas. Chilaca is used in both dishes, with a very good flavor. It was time for dessert. Doña Beatriz came out of the kitchen with a beautiful basket full of different milk sweets, which we had already bought in the morning at La Gota de miel and La Cocada, both in the center. Of course, she was greeted with applause, as sweets were the main reason for our visit. They were the winners, the recipe considered by many Mexicans, as the best of the national gastronomy. In addition, the story goes that while Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859) was there, he tried in a manor house, arriving at the desserts, the milk and walnut sweets and surprised by the taste, he told his hosts: “They are the best sweets I've ever tasted ”. Time proved him right. They have a very fine flavor and although elsewhere they try to emulate, they are different, fresh and delicious.
Flashes of yesteryear
During all this gastronomic "feat" we visited very interesting places. The chronicles, but especially the anecdotal from Parralense, tell that Juan Rangel de Biezma, back in the year 1629, raised a stone on the hill of La Prieta and passed his tongue to it. He then exclaimed: This is a mineral deposit. That deposit produced silver for 340 years.
Undoubtedly San Joseph del Parral, which later received the name of Hidalgo del Parral, in a few years after it was founded became the most important city in northern Mexico. All this thanks to the mineral discovered in the hill that crowns its streets and alleys and that was baptized as La Negrita by Juan Rangel de Biezma. The truth is that the mine produced enough silver to send the "king's fifth" to Spain and to open the way for the colonization of lands as far away as New Mexico. The capital of the world, as the Parralenses call it, and for many years the head of what was the province of Nueva Vizcaya, it continues to have that provincial air where anecdotes and endless gatherings of those who never find the opportunity to leave are accommodated.
It is precisely that air of the province that comes from afar, earned by enterprising thugs, hard-working miners and old-fashioned ranchers, which makes Parral an attractive place for tourists interested in collecting stories. It is enough to know that La Negrita, later called La Prieta, produced tons of silver over more than 300 years. Today you can visit the mine (which was 22 stories deep) to see what was its patio and some of the tunnels through which the mineral was accessed.
Visiting Casa Alvarado is interesting, since its owner established his house and the administration of the mine known as La Palmilla there. One fine day this man wrote to Don Porfirio Díaz offering him the resources that would be needed to pay the foreign debt of Mexico. A good part of the wealth of the Alvarado family is precisely the Palace built by the architect Federico Amérigo Rouvier, who also built the Stallforth house, the Hidalgo hotel (that Don Pedro Alvarado gave to Pancho Villa) and the Griensen family house. Today this Palace functions as a cultural center and museum, the furniture that is preserved was brought directly from Europe and the walls of the central courtyard were decorated by the Italian painter Antonio Decanini from 1946 to 1948.
You can also admire the façade of the house where Elisa Griensen was born, an exemplary Parralense who fired at a contingent of soldiers who were part of the troops that entered the national territory to search for Francisco Villa, after whom the famous general he raided his Dorados beyond the border and attacked the city of Columbus.
You can take the opportunity to visit the Francisco Villa house museum, located in the place from where former enemies of Villa backed by the central government, waited for many days for the general's car to pass to shoot him, killing him in the company of his trusted men. when he was getting ready to leave the city for Canutillo. Very close to there, in the Plaza Guillermo Baca, is the hotel where Francisco Villa was watched. Just a few steps ahead, the building that occupied the Stallforth house is surprising. Those who were its owners and Pedro Alvarado became benefactors of the city by donating the necessary funds for public service works.
We already knew that Parral was named the capital of the world of La Plata by King Felipe IV of Spain, also that it was named a branch of heaven by an important ecclesiastical authority, now it should be added to those titles that its sweets are a gastronomic wonder of Mexico.
The secret of Parral milk sweets
We know that traditional sweets are made from boiled milk to which sugar and spices are added that give it a distinctive touch, but the truth is that Parral sweets are unique and the recipe is a secret that has been kept from generation to generation. Thanks to the production of nuts and pine nuts in the same region, these sweets are generously accompanied by them and also by raisins or peanuts.
The taste and pride for their sweets in Hidalgo del Parral is such that in addition to the children, always willing to eat them regardless of the time or time, the families gathered around the table offer them as desserts, and their enjoyment serves as a pretext. When the afternoon falls, the cold is pressing and the coffee gathers the diners around the basket of magical sweets.
Surroundings
Very close to Parral you can visit Santa Bárbara, an old mining estate, considered the oldest city in the state; San Francisco del Oro and especially Valle de Allende, famous for the production of peaches, pears and walnuts of exceptional quality. There it is advisable to visit the house of Rita Soto, chronicler of the place, excellent hostess and distinguished Chihuahuan who welcomes visitors with open arms. Also, following the Valle de Allende road, you can reach Talamantes, an old textile town that today functions as a spa taking advantage of the waters of one of the tributaries of the Conchos.
