Another canoe adventure, from Xcaret to Cozumel

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Join us on this original journey by canoeing the blue waters of the Caribbean Sea, from Xcaret to Cozumel, as the ancient Mayans did more than 500 years ago!

Living the experience of making the ancient journeys of those who inhabited our territory has interested unknown Mexico for many years. When we received the invitation from the Xcaret Eco-Archaeological Park to participate in the first Sacred Mayan Journey We accept the challenge of sailing the sea, just as the Mayans did 500 years ago.

Guided by Ek Chuah, god of cacao, of Mayan merchants and travelers, and guided by Xaman Ek, god of the north star, we lit the censers and prepared our offering in honor of the goddess Ixchel and began this great maritime adventure. , in which we paddle from Xcaret to the island of Cozumel, and back to Playa del Carmen.

This journey, organized on the initiative of the Xcaret Eco-Archaeological Park, emerged two years ago as an interdisciplinary project, with the advice of the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) and with the work of anthropologists, historians and navigational experts, who made sure that the Sacred Mayan Journey adhered to the results. research, taking care that the canoes, rituals, dances and music were as close to what they were in their time. All this in order to preserve our cultural heritage and strengthen the knowledge and identity of the Mayan world. For this project, five one-piece canoes were built, using a hatchet, from pich and poppy trees to carry four to six rowers. From one of these a mold was taken to build another 15 in fiberglass.

Guests by Xcaret

That is how I arrived in Playa del Carmen and my first objective was to form a team of six rowers willing to wake up at 6:00 am to train. With the help of my Canadian friend Natalie Gelineau, we started recruiting female friends. The first time we went out it was very hard, as we had to coordinate the paddling with the steering. The current was strong and after three hours we had to return towed by one of the support boats. Natalie came down with bloodied hands from the rustic wooden oars. Afterwards each one was fixing his oar with varnish, wax or flat, sandpaper. The next day the wind was blowing strong and the waves were high, we began to row and when we realized it, we were already swimming. It was very hard to get the boats afloat again, as they were extremely heavy.

The unknown Mexico team

Everyone's great uncertainty was the same: what would the weather be like? Some teams had already crossed to Cozumel and on one occasion they rowed for six hours and were never able to cross the channel that separates the island from the peninsula. On the other hand, the day was approaching and we still did not have the complete equipment. Finally, two days before, he was defined with: Natalie, Margarita, Levi, Alin Moss and his sister, the Mexican sailor Galia Moss, who exactly one year ago had arrived in Cozumel, after her long solo trip through the Atlantic Ocean. I would be the helmsman.

On May 31 in the afternoon, the initiation ceremony was held, where ritual dances dedicated to the goddess Ixchel were performed.

Came the day…

Finally, on June 1, we met at 4:30 in the morning, in the cove of Xcaret Park. Some of the rowers painted their faces and bodies with Mayan motifs and dressed in the traditional sailor costume, which consisted of a loincloth and a head band, while the women wore a white huipil and a kind of open skirt. on both sides. An hour later, the Farewell Ceremony of the rowers was held by the batao'ob (rulers) of Xcaret.

The 20 teams took up our oars and at 6:00 o'clock, with the first ray of sun, we began to row to enter the kingdom of Xibalbá. For the Mayans, the sea was a source of food, but it was also a source of devastation and death, since it marked the entrance to Xilbalbá, the underworld. Luckily for everyone, the weather and sea conditions were perfect.

As soon as we started, Alin dropped his paddle so we had to turn back and pick him up, luckily we managed to rescue him, and we continued south. We pass through the port of Calica and arriving at Paamul, we turn towards Cozumel. This strategy was so that when we were crossing the channel, the current would not take us off the island. Margarita went ahead setting the pace and to drink water we took turns one by one. At all times we were accompanied and guided by a boat from the Secretary of the Navy.

The arrival

Finally, after four and a half hours and 26 kilometers of turquoise blue waters, we were welcomed in Cozumel. The 20 teams meet under the national flag. In the background the sailors could be heard singing the National Anthem and the new 120 Mayan sailors disembarked at Casitas Beach, happy to have completed this magical journey, which had not been carried out for more than 500 years.

During the night the rituals and the offering of rowers to Ixchel took place, as well as the farewell to the rowers, who the next day left the Paso del Cedral Beach for Playa del Carmen.

The hard return

At the return crossing the sea conditions were harsher, there were big waves and some boats turned over, some others were swept away by the current; one of them reached Puerto Morelos and had to be towed to Playa del Carmen. Finally we all managed to arrive safely and we were able to give the message of the goddess Ixchel.

We hope to revive more of these ancient Mayan trade routes in the not too distant future, and thus rediscover the secrets of the Yucatan Peninsula. Don't miss out on our next adventure.

cozumelmayaplaya del carmenriviera mayaxcaret

Photographer specialized in adventure sports. He has worked for MD for over 10 years!

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