We return again to the south of Mexico City, place of numerous sites related to our colonial past, to enjoy one of those little corners in which time seems to pass, the old Plaza de Chimalistac, today Plaza Federico Gamboa.
Insurgentes Avenue, on the corner with Miguel Ángel de Quevedo, is the starting point of a relaxed Sunday family walk; on the latter you can leave the car and start the walk.
At the beginning of the colonial period, Chimalistac was owned by Juan de Guzmán Ixtolinque, who had a large garden on these lands that was sold (two-thirds) to the Carmelites when he died. With this acquisition, the friars expanded the land belonging to the convent of El Carmen (San Ángel), over time a part of the garden was divided and was sold, forming what we now know as the Chimalistac colony. Fortunately, this area preserves -like San Ángel- its picturesque aspect, because the residents maintain the traditional use of materials such as quarry, wood and volcanic stone in the design of their houses, added to the vegetation and cobbled streets. that together manage to preserve the peaceful spirit of this area of the city.
Its secrets ...
We enter Chimalistac street, and before entering the square, we invite you to visit the monument to General Álvaro Obregón, located in a large garden known as the Parque de la Bombilla. Right on the site where this monument stands, this historical figure was assassinated after being reelected president of Mexico in 1928, during a meal at the La Bombilla restaurant. With a large water mirror in front, it was inaugurated on July 17, 1935. Its shape resembles a pyramid whose base is made of granite; thick alfardas frame the access staircase, topped by a couple of sculptures that symbolize the struggles of the peasants, a work by Ignacio Asúnsolo (1890-1965). Its interior shows floors and walls covered in marble, in charge of the Ponzanelli marble work; Years ago, the arm of the general who lost in the battle of Celaya was shown here.
We turn our backs on the monument and now head east, to enter through the narrow street of San Sebastián and reach the Plaza de Chimalistac, which is rectangular in shape, contains a stone cross and a circular fountain in the center. It serves as the atrium for the beautiful little chapel of the same name, built by the Carmelites around 1585 in honor of Saint Sebastian. The semicircular arch of its access - framed by paired columns -, the niche with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, a pair of octagonal windows, and a tower with its bell tower from the late seventeenth century form its simple façade. Inside, there is a beautiful gilded altarpiece from the 18th century that belonged to the Temple of Piety, presided over by the figure of Saint Sebastian and five paintings that represent the mysteries of the glorious rosary. Needless to say, it is one of the temples in the city most requested by the bride and groom to celebrate their marriage.
On the south side of the plaza, there is a typical country house from the end of the 18th century, which is currently occupied by the Condumex Center for the History of Mexico Studies. A plaque on its façade honors one of its owners, Don Federico Gamboa, “… who with very noble and high ingenuity gave life to Santa (his novel), fusing them with the poetry of Chimalistac and the miseries of the great city, his name it lasts in this square ”. In 1931 the film Santa was premiered, so the town and chapel vividly called the attention of the inhabitants of the capital to this beautiful corner. It is difficult to describe the peace that this charming place exudes, set with its trees and colonial-style architecture, interrupted only by the noise of a few cars passing by.
To extend this proposal for a family outing, we invite you to leave the plaza heading east until you find the Callejón San Angelo and continue south two short streets to reach the Paseo del Río, the old course of the Magdalena River that irrigated the Chimalistac orchard . Your young children and teenagers will be delighted to discover this pleasant and landscaped space, along which there are two large stone bridges.
How to get:
On Av. Insurgentes, at La Bombilla del Metrobus station. Cross the avenue in the direction of Parque La Bombilla, where the Obregón Monument is located. Walk on Av. De la Paz, until you reach Av. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo.
Through the Metro Collective System, at the Miguel Ángel de Quevedo station on line 3 Universidad-Indios Verdes
