The Bay of Angels, a jewel in the Sea of ​​Cortez

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Bahía de los Ángeles, in Baja California, hides under its waters a fascinating world of underwater species and landscapes, many of them difficult to find in other settings in Mexico. Don't stop admiring them!

In 1951 the journalist Fernando Jordan He took an unprecedented tour of the Baja California peninsula describing the wonders of what he called "the other Mexico." His story reflects a particular emotion when 650 km south of Tijuana he discovered one of the most beautiful corners of the Baja California coast. Jordan had come to Los Angeles Bay, jewel of nature in the central region of the Sea of ​​Cortez.

The portal of the Great Islands of the Gulf of California Region

Upon arriving at Los Angeles Bay from the transpeninsular highway the landscape is breathtaking. In the background, the imposing Angel de la Guarda Island (the second largest in the Gulf of California, after Isla Tiburon) encompasses a string of small islands and islets scattered throughout the bay. Coronado or Smith Island, which to the north exhibits a 500 m high volcanic cone, is followed to the south by Skull, Louse, Paw, Boot, Hunchback, Arrow, Key, Locksmith, Window, Horse's head Y The Twins. Practically all the islands are visible from the road, just before descending to the town.

The combination of islands and underwater canyons generates strong marine currents, in an area of ​​great productivity and biological richness that for decades has aroused the curiosity of scientists and the fascination of travelers who, like Fernando Jordan, they venture to this paradise.

Los Angeles Bay was originally inhabited by cochimíes. The Explorer Francisco de Ulloa sailed in its vicinity around 1540, but was the Jesuit Juan Ugarte the first Spanish to disembark in the area, in 1721. Starting in 1759, the bay began to be used as a landing port for materials and supplies used in the Mission of San Borja, located 37 kilometers from the coast.

In 1880, important deposits of silver, which motivated the opening of several mines. At that time the population reached 500 inhabitants, but this flourishing reached its peak around 1910, when the region was ravaged by filibusters. While most of the miners left the region, a few continued prospecting or established ranches. Many of the current inhabitants of Los Angeles Bay they descend from those hardened pioneers.

At present, the town is inhabited by about 300 people, mainly dedicated to fishing, tourism and commerce, while almost an equal number of Americans have built their retirement or vacation residences here.

PARADISE FOR ECOTOURISM AND ADVENTURE

Few places in the Gulf of california are as rich in flora and fauna as Los Angeles Bay. During one of my visits, a fisherman invited me to tour the bay in his boat. To my surprise, after a few minutes of navigation we observed a huge whale shark swimming calmly at the surface. This species is harmless for man, since, unlike its feared relatives, it feeds only on the tiny animals and algae that make up the plankton. Its mouth, although it can reach almost a meter in width, lacks teeth, so it filters food through its gills. In a short journey we managed to see eight whale sharks that congregated in the southern end of the bay, where the currents concentrate the plankton.

The waters of the bay are also a refuge for the fin whale, the second largest animal that has ever existed on our planet, surpassed only by blue whale. There are also many dolphins, and on the islands you can see several colonies of sea ​​lions.

In Los Angeles Bay is the population of brown pelican most important of Gulf of california. From the boat I observed that the canyons and cliffs of some of these islands are covered by nests pelican. This seabird feeds mainly on sardines that it catches near the surface, taking advantage of the density of its shoals. When nesting, pelicans are very sensitive to human disturbance, so it is prohibited to descend on these islands in the summer, during their reproductive season.

Another bird of singular beauty and easy to see in the area is the fishing eagle, a species that builds its nests on the highest cliffs of the islands of Los Angeles Bay. The osprey basically eats fish, hence its name. To locate its prey, it flies above the water until it finds a school, preferably in shallow water. Then it takes off into a dive and dives into the water, capturing its prey with its claws. During the nesting season the male is in charge of providing food, while the female remains in the nest protecting her chicks from the sun and predators.

Framed by emerald waters, the archipelago of Los Angeles Bay it is ideal for browsing kayak. Coronado Island is one of the favorites for to camp and has the unique spectacle of a huge lagoon It fills up at high tide and empties at low tide, forming a veritable river through the island.

Many “kayakers” go on multi-day trips across the entire archipelago, and the most experienced get to cross, from island to island, to the state of Sonora. However, these types of adventures require great expertise and knowledge of the local winds and currents, since the region is characterized by abrupt weather changes.

Los Angeles Bay is also a very popular spot for sport fishing either on outboard motor boats or larger boats. Among the most abundant species are horse mackerel, tuna, marlin and dorado.

THE MARINE TURTLES

The sea ​​turtles they were used in a sustainable way by the indigenous peoples of the region for centuries. However, the fishing of the last decades has led them to near extinction. As of 1940 these species began to be exploited commercially, in the 1960s production became one of the most important in Mexico, and in the early 1970s the catches decreased.

Concerned about the drastic decline in turtle populations, more than 20 years ago Antonio and Beatriz Reséndiz established in Los Angeles Bay the first Center for the Study and Conservation of Sea Turtles Northwest of Mexico. This initiative, supported by the National Fisheries Institute, has become a standard for the conservation of the bay's marine resources.

The Tortuguero camp de los Reséndiz receives dozens of visitors, including students, scientists and tourists, who come to observe the turtles in captivity in a series of ponds built on the beach. This unusual laboratory has allowed the biology and physiology of turtles to be studied in detail, and has led to an experiment of worldwide significance.

In August 1996 a tortoise captured and bred in captivity by the Reséndiz was released on the Pacific coast of Baja California. "Adelita", as the turtle was baptized, wore a transmitter that would allow knowing its whereabouts. One year after its release, and after having covered 11,500 km across the Pacific Ocean, Adelita reached the Senday Bay, in Japan, demonstrating for the first time the capacity and migratory path of turtles. The discovery has given a new impetus to the Tortuguero center of Los Angeles Bay, which relentlessly preaches in the locality the need to stop clandestine fishing and collaborate in the conservation of these friendly animals.

THE FUTURE

Few places in the world have the diversity of marine life and the beauty of landscapes like Los Angeles Bay, which gives it an enormous tourist and scientific attraction. In response to this potential, several hotels, shops and restaurants. However, the privilege of having these natural resources also implies a great responsibility, since it is necessary to use these resources without threatening their conservation for future generations.

Aware of this situation, the inhabitants of Los Angeles Bay and the conservation organization Pronatura promoted the creation of Bahia de Los Angeles National Park. This new protected natural area would encompass the islands and the marine portion of the bay, serving as a framework to regulate and promote the sustainable development of commercial fishing, sport fishing and tourism in the region. This will benefit the local community, ensuring the conservation of this jewel of the Sea of ​​Cortez.

HOW TO GET TO BAHÍA DE LOS ANGELES

Since Tijuana you get to Los Angeles Bay by the transpeninsular highway. 600 km to the south take the branch to the east at the parador called Punta Prieta, which is clearly marked. Los Angeles Bay it is located 50 km from the transpeninsular highway and the road is paved.

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