ADVENTURES IN THE NAVOJOA VALLEY, SONORA

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As soon as we left the airport and without many detours, as they are in the north, they told me: "the race is already well set to give it".

Although we had not really talked much more before the trip, he only had his promise that he would live an unforgettable adventure. Anyway, he didn't know what it was about, no matter how hard he tried, he couldn't imagine how much race he could be or how posed they could be, but he was about to find out.

Out of sight, out of mind

When we got to the hotel we met Jesús Bouvet, who runs the Lobo Aventurismo club in Navojoa, and just from seeing the bicycle he was bringing, I knew that the "race" was indeed well set. Together with Carlos and Pancho we plan the route, the schedules and the necessary equipment for our expedition. In less than half an hour it was clear to me that here, in addition to chili peppers and barley, they taste like adventure. Maybe it's the stereotype, but it was hard for me to imagine a farmer or an agronomist getting off his truck - a hat and well-fitted boots - to equip himself to the teeth and go out pedaling his full suspension bicycle.

Under advise there is not cheat

We had agreed on the itinerary and all the logistics details. The heavy props: kayaks, ropes, mountain bikes and horses, as well as the little details, sunscreen, repellent and supplies for each outing. Then the question arose: how many are we? Which could well be: how many can we fit? And is that while they were counting, I could only remember the words of my friend, "the race is well set" ... I had never seen such enthusiasm, I really was speechless.

Day 1Moroncarit estuary, the paradise of birds

We need three trucks to be able to transport the eight kayaks - mostly double and triple - to the Port of Yávaros, famous not only for its sardines, but for the natural beauty of its surroundings. We began to row through the mangrove labyrinth, which is a refuge for thousands of resident and migratory seabirds, hundreds of brantas, herons, cranes, white and brown pelicans, ducks (swallow and bald), roseate spoonbills, various species of gulls, frigates and sea cocks flutter in every corner of this place. I have never seen so many birds together. Paddling is not very technical in the open stretches of the mangrove, but along the way there are some branches where you have to maneuver with precision, not only because of the risk of getting stuck between the branches, but because the slightest fuss can provoke the attack of about 5,000 mosquitoes, which is not recommended. In order to see birds it is important to row in silence, otherwise it is almost impossible to get close.

We enjoyed this beautiful place so much that we decided to endure the “rush hour” - in which mosquitoes dominate everything - to witness the sunset, which in this region is a true spectacle. By the way, the passion with which Spiro recorded the behavior of this diversity of birds is really contagious, to the extent that we all fight to use his spare binoculars, because he does not let go of his binoculars or by mistake, and that is through his meticulous study –to date he has registered 125 species of birds– has been able to involve the business sector of Huatabampo for the creation of the Fundación Mangle Negro, AC

Day 2 In search of sea lion

The next morning we get up early to return to the same port, this time to sail by sea in search of the sea lion that seasonally inhabits these coasts. Although they are small wolfhounds, they are very attractive due to the sociable behavior that these mammals have shown in the presence of humans. We paddled along the burned bridge and past the cliffs they frequent and no luck. Then, Spiro said: "no way, let's go to the beach to see if there are silly birds", which did not seem very promising to say, but soon I got out of my mistake. As we got closer, I began to make out a spot on the beach that seemed to extend for about 50 or 60 meters. Indeed, there were many birds there, hundreds of them, perhaps a thousand, and to my surprise that was not our destination. A couple of kilometers later we were in front of a large patch, about 400 meters long, formed by cormorants and blue-footed boobies. Pancho told me that they were waiting for me there because as soon as I put my foot in the sand they would fly, and that's how it was, as soon as I landed the flocks of 100 to 200 birds began at once, taking off one after another in a spectacle without equal. In a few minutes the beach was deserted.

Despite the current against us, which made our return difficult, we still stopped to observe the nests of the oystercatchers that, very well camouflaged, can be found a few meters from the shore. Just upon arrival, we encountered a family of dolphins feeding in front of the beach, which served to close the journey with a flourish.

The highest peak in the valley
Anyone would have had enough with the morning paddle, but the ascent to the highest peak of the valley was already scheduled, so after a good meal we went to Etchojoa, where a lonely mountain range of seven peaks stands out: Bayajórito, Moyacahui , Junelancahui, La Campana, Oromuni, Totocame and Babucahui, among which Mayocahui is the highest (150 meters high), although it does not represent a great challenge, the view from the top is well worth it. The mountain is full of different types of cacti and mesquite, which are used by different types of birds, such as the desert woodpecker, the blue swallow, the northern welt and the highest aerial predator, the peregrine falcon.

Day 3 The Horse of Steel

The idea of the rancher in lycra shorts pedaling a mountain bike was still a bit strange, but Jesús and Guillermo Barrón could no longer bear the urge to “give me cheeks” on the trails that they themselves have traced within Rancho Santa Cruz. Who would have thought that Memo is a state champion and one of the most outstanding national cyclists in the master category? In other words, the friend "hits" very hard on this. In general, they use the gaps left by cattle during their passage through the mountains, which must be periodically maintained, because although here the weed does not grow as in the south of the Republic, a collision with a mesquite or some type of cactus could become any cyclist's worst nightmare. The landscape changes dramatically with the seasons, so the tracks are always different. In the rainy season, the green bursts in every corner; and in drought, the brown branches blend with the color of the earth and it is easy to get lost on the trails. Spiro and I spent a long time trying to find the traces of the jubilee trail, where the others had gone. It was a very strange sensation, because we could hear them, but not see them, it was as if they were camouflaged with brush.

Day 4 and 5 The secret of San Bernardo

At this point in the trip I was well convinced that this region offers adventure for all tastes, but I did not know that one more surprise awaited me. Carlos had told me a lot about the beauty of San Bernardo, north of Álamos, almost on the border with Chihuahua. After a couple of hours of travel, the truck with Lalo, Abraham, Pancho, Spiro and I finally stopped in front of the Divisadero Hotel, in the center of San Bernardo, where Lauro and his family were already waiting for us. After lunch the expedition began. It was a paradise of incredible rock formations! By the time we got back to the hotel, they had already organized a roast beef for us in the company of the town authorities. The next day we left, some on horseback and others on mules, through a canyon known as Los Enjambres, which is a true spectacle.

With this our trip ended, very grateful to have shared unforgettable moments with those who welcomed us and showed us this 100% Mexican paradise for adventurers at heart.